10/8/26 – As we approach the end of the season our hours and services shift into wrap up mode. Some things of note that have already changed, or will in the coming days include; shortened hours, turning off outside water, winterizing our shower house, etc.
Our rental services will also begin to shift. If planning a trip to the area and in need of gear give us a call in advance. We’d be happy to help you set up a reservation and relay any notable changes over the dates of your trip. -Jessica
9/28/26 – There are a few hallmarks of fall here at Sawbill, crisp frosty mornings, changing leaves, and of course the annual used canoe sale. If you’ve been here for awhile, you know that we typically start our canoe sale later. That’s because it takes Dan quite awhile to refurbish each used canoe. We’ve gotten some feedback that folks would like the option to shop canoes before the regular refurb sale, so now’s your chance!
So here’s the scoop. We have three year old kevlars for sale, on site only. There are Wenonah Minnesota 2’s, Wenonah Minnesota 3’s, and Northstar Seligas – all ranging in price from about $1450-$1600, depending on condition. These canoes are for sale in store only, here at Sawbill, and you must take it home with you. We do sell foam blocks and cam straps as well to help you get it home safely. We won’t be listing this early sale online, and we won’t set aside or store these canoes. You gotta come visit us to snag one!
Any canoes that don’t sell between now and October 20th will get the refurbishment treatment from Dan and listed on our website, per usual.
Feel free to call with questions, or take a drive up and check them out. The fall leaves are in fine form right now so it’s a great time to cruise up the North Shore!
-Clare
9/12/26 – Our friends Tim and Anne visited recently to take their first BWCA Wilderness canoe trip. Below is their trip report:
We’ve done a lot of camping and canoeing but, at age 68, the BWCA portages seemed a little intimidating. And those Duluth packs were big! But the pre-trip instructions were thorough and confidence building and the Kevlar canoe is sure a lot lighter than the Old Town Camper we use at home!
Our first day started in solid fog on Sawbill Lake and took us all the way into Cherokee Lake to a wonderful campsite close to where Cherokee Creek enters the lake from the south. We called the place Beaver Keep because the site was guarded by a large beaver who just kept swimming back and forth at the foot of the sloping rock ledge leading to the water. (I half-expected it to ask to inspect our BWCA permit!) We didn’t arrive until about 6 pm but set up quickly and enjoyed the steak dinner that Clare packed for us. The sky and stars were crystal clear and Anne took the most beautiful moonrise picture I’ve ever seen.
On day 2, a little sore after the 5 portages on Monday, we decided to keep our campsite and do a day trip picnicking into Town Lake, accessible through a short but somewhat hidden portage from the northeast corner of Cherokee. We were glad that the portage is a little obscure because we had the good-sized lake to ourselves and enjoyed lunch at the sole campsite. Then we reversed tracks fighting the only real windy day of our trip to get back for night 2 in Cherokee.
On our first 2 days, we only saw a handful of people and usually at a great distance. Day 3 was the exception but in a pleasant way. Folks were traveling to or from South Temperance Lake that day so the portage from Cherokee to Sitka was a mini-traffic jam going both ways. It was a good day to be around people because we lost one of our 2 water bottles in Sitka Lake and a large Minneapolis group gave us an extra they had brought along. (We call that “trail magic” along the Appalachian Trail in Virginia.) We camped on a beautiful promontory site on South Temperance near the portage to Weird Lake that we named Gull Guard because today’s back and forth guardian was not a beaver but a squawking gull. Our most memorable loon show happened that night as 2 loons alerted each other to the presence of a nearby bald eagle.
Day 4 began with our longest portage, 240 rods. But now we were used to it. So we made steady progress south through Weird and Jack Lakes only passing one hearty duo coming north in an aluminum canoe before we finished the day at the northernmost campsite in Kelly Lake. We set up our tent under spruce and pine trees, swam, made dinner, had a great fire and roasted s’mores before turning in for our last night in the wild. The weather had been perfect all week but our luck ran out once we were safely in the tent. The skies opened up about 10 pm and rain, lightning and thunder were steady for hours. But the tent was dry and the sound was soothing with no real wind to make us worry about falling branches.
We awoke on day 5 with inches of water in the canoe and mud splattered all over the items we’d left outside. But we were treated to a cool and cloudy day and the delightful sound of a blue winged teal, which Anne celebrated along with the other new birds she’d found along our route. That bird bestowed the name Duck Blind on our last campsite as we then pushed south through Kelly and Peterson Lakes toward our finish at West Baker. It was a great birdwatching morning with no other boats on the water after the storm. As we neared the south end of Kelly, we saw a pair of Trumpeter Swans swimming ahead of us, leading us to the end of our trip. The romantic pair swam side by side, occasionally drifting apart but then coming back together before eventually turning back toward us and swimming by on our right side. They reminded us of us after 42 years of marriage and it seemed a perfect metaphor for our journey.
But we still had the short 16 rod portage into West Baker. And the low water level meant that we had to walk the boat through about 200 yards of a slippery rock-strewn creek to get to the portage. It seemed appropriate that the last stretch was a little trickier than we thought it would be. No time for complacency in the BWCA!
“What if we went on a canoe trip tomorrow?” – Lea, Monday 08/31/26.
And that’s all it took for the Sawbill Crew to find themselves headed to Baker Lake the following evening after the store closed. The plan was to paddle from Baker Lake to Sawbill Lake. One canoe, for the crew members that valued their own bed and more sleep, would paddle straight through that evening. The other two canoes would make a stop on Burnt Lake for an overnight adventure. Last-minute permit cancellations often make spontaneous trips like this possible, and we were able to grab an overnight Baker permit.
We managed to get on the water at about 8:15 pm Tuesday night. It was starting to get dark, so we moved as quickly as we could to get through Baker-Peterson portage. Due to low water levels, the portage is longer than usual and incredibly rocky. Paddling in the dark is a different experience from day-time paddling. Balancing on rocky terrain with a canoe on your shoulders can be tricky. We relied on large features such as islands and outcroppings/bays on the shoreline as we paddled since more subtle markings are impossible to spot in the dark. While not always the case, portages are often located at low points in the tree-line, another night-time navigation tool.
You also can’t see the wildlife in the dark, but they can see you. Slaps in the water near our canoes let us know beavers were around.
We reached Burnt lake around 10:15 and said goodbye to Sawyer, Jessica, and Mike, who continued on towards Sawbill. They reached Sawbill at around 11:45 completing the Flame Lakes route in about 3 and a half hours. I was more than ready to find a campsite. Thankfully, Damon had some insider information on the perfect sight for us. The southern site on Burnt is spacious and has a great sunrise view.
We made it safely to the campsite after portaging 230 rods between Kelly and Burnt. The only casualty so far was Rube’s sandal, a lesson to everyone to always carry duck tape.
The obvious next step after setting up camp was to make s’mores.
Stories by the fire are an essential camping experience. That night was extra special, with the trumpet-like calls of swans accompanying us as we sat around the fire. The older you get, the more stories you have to share. Rube and Damon could have talked all night.
We had an early morning the next day to get back in time before the store opened. The water was calm with a slight mist rising up, and the rising sun colored the sky in brilliant reds and oranges.
Paddling to the sunrise made the portages much easier to find, and we could see the wildlife this time. Four eagles flew over us, and we met the swans on Burnt from the night before.
The paddle back to Sawbill took us 1 hour and 45 minutes. Our arrival time at the Sawbill landing was 7:30 am, perfectly timed for the crew members who had an opening 8 am shift.
The opportunity to go into the wilderness after a long day’s work, spend the night sleeping under the stars, then commute via paddling to start a new day’s work is a unique experience. And as fun as these spontaneous trips are, we also get to learn about the routes that you, fellow readers, may go on someday. If you’re interested in paddling the Flames Lakes, ask us about it! We are more than happy to share what we know!
-Megan and Kay
It’s that time of year; many of the summer staff have left or are soon to go. There are a few current crew staying on for the fall season as well as some new faces joining us. Damon (featured in last week’s newsletter), Chris, and Rube will be joining us for the fall. Also of note, we will be switching to our fall hours starting September 1st. The new hours will be 8 am to 7 pm.
Goodbye’s are always hard, but one loss will be felt particularly deeply. Owen Leister, our resident campground bathroom cleaner, is leaving Sawbill today. To express our appreciation for his commitment to Sawbill’s bathrooms, we have written him a poem. Please enjoy.
Ode to Bathroom Boy
Oh Owen, our Bathroom Boy
He has brought us so much joy
The man, the myth, the Toilet Fairy
Lavoratory
To the campground, he would rush
With his trusty chariot and brush
He’s the reason you might say “Pristine!”
When you enter one of Sawbill’s latrines
He visited bathrooms day after day
To brush, scrub, and spray
Though it was not always pleasant
He did this job from spring till present
We thank you for your service, Toilet Fairy
Yours was not a job for the wary
You never backed down, even when it was bad
Nothing was too much for our Loo Lad
Here we recognize one of Sawbill’s own
For his dedication to the porcelain thrones
His attitude was always swell
Now to Bathroom Boy, we must bid farewell
With love,
– Megan and the Sawbill Crew
8/27/26- Upon arrival at Sawbill back in June, I planned the most epic canoe trip of my life: a 4-day Little Saganaga loop starting at Kawishiwi and ending at Sawbill. A few weeks later, I received the devastating news that my permit had been cancelled due to the fires. I shed a tear.
But hope was not lost.
I had three more vacation days lined up for a trip in August. 4 days, 11 hours, and 37 minutes before my days off, a permit for Brant Lake opened up. The most epic canoe trip of my life was back on, just from a different direction. On day 1, we would enter at Round Lake, paddle to Brant, through Gillis, up to French Lake, over to Virgin, and into Little Sag. Day two we would paddle through Mora and Crooked Lakes and camp on Tuscarora. On the last day, we would exit through Missing Link.
Lauren (2025 crew) and Dani (my college roomie!) joined me, and we put a Northwind18 on my civic; a true test of my tie-down skills.
After a helpful clue from the Tuscarora staff about low water levels, we put in at Round lake at 11:15 am and set off for Little Sag.
Day 1 started with swift progress. Gotter Lake had drained, though the new unmapped portage on the northern side of the lake was easy to spot. After about 4 hours, we made it to Gillis. From there, our progress slowed as we apparently took the route less travelled to Little Sag.
We reached Little Sag around 6 pm and paddled straight for a campsite (east island site) recommended by Sawbill’s very own: Jessica Hemmer. Sure enough, it was the Best Campsite Ever, featuring a cliff rock face up to the fire grate and a trail to the western side of the island for great sunset views.
At the early hour of 11 am the next morning, we set off for Tuscarora Lake, and we soon encountered the Best Portage Ever. The portage between Little Sag and Mora Lake features an overlook to a river below, and a waterfall near the eastern side.
After reaching Tuscarora, we bypassed the first open site in search of a better one. Unbeknownst to us, that was probably the only open site on the lake. An hour later, hangry and weary, we had found almost every other campsite. We paddled back to the first one, feeling a little silly.
We started off day 3 super-duper early at 9 am for our 363 rod portage to Missing Link. Even with the low water levels, the portage was flooded near Contest lake.
Lauren took an unplanned swim to the next portage after falling into the water while trying to enter the canoe. Like the safety-minded queen that she is, she was wearing her lifejacket.
After reaching Round Lake and squeezing into my car, we headed back down the Gunflint Trail. Like every good canoe trip, we ended it with a stop at the Angry Trout in Grand Marais for some delicious fish tacos.
And now here is a quick overview of the wildlife we encountered: 34 loons, 2 turtles, 1 crayfish, 1 hummingbird, and 20ish mergansers.
Because it wouldn’t be The Best Trip Ever without my favorite, squishy, blood-sucking creatures, we found 6 leaches on ourselves.
It was epic.
-Megan
We talk a lot about paddling here, but how about two wheel travel? I’ve ridden hundreds of
miles of dirt road up in the BWCA region, some on bicycle, plenty on a motorcycle. Other than
fishing Sawbill Lake spending my free time on my motorcycle is my favorite thing to do up
here.
My bike is a 2023 Honda Trail 125. It’s based on the Trail 90 which was a wildly popular bike
from its inception in the mid 60’s right up until the 80’s. Initially marketed to hunters and
outdoorsmen, Honda sold millions of these bikes over the years. Mine retains the classic
styling of the original Trail bikes but with electric start, anti lock brakes and fuel injection. It’s
lightweight, easy to ride, low maintenance, and ultra fuel efficient (125 MPG or more!)
Northeastern MN is a trail riders paradise. The larger “main’ roads like Sawbill Trail, Perent Lake
Rd and The Grade are wide, well maintained, fun and easy to ride. But the real fun is nosing
down one of the hundreds of unnamed two track trails that peel off into the woods. I always
bring a Delorme’s Gazatteer (I’m obsessed with these things) with me but I rely on the ONX app
to track my routes and mileage. Sometimes these two tracks end in a dispersed campsite or a
stream crossing, and sometimes they just succumb to overgrowth and become unrideable.
During the right time of summer you can stumble onto fantastic berry patches. I’ve also
discovered interesting rock outcroppings and have seen moose, owls, a bear, and once a trio of wolf
pups.
Some of my favorite rides close to Sawbill include Pancore Lake Road, Honeymoon Trail and
Mark Lake Rd. Each one different from the others but that all have their distinct charms.
Last week I did a side trip to the Ely area and rode north of town up the Echo Trail. I did not see
any fire damage but there is plenty of fire prevention activity in that area. The day I was there
forest service crews were cutting back trees and brush on the north side of Echo Trail making it
a fire break.
Non motorized gravel biking (I have a motorcycle friend who’s calls bicycling “acoustic biking”)
is also great up here. A few years back I did the “Straddle and Paddle” backpacking route that
starts at Temperance River Park, then winds it’s way on dirt roads past Sawbill, Devil Track
Lake and then down the hill into Grand Marais before the long ride down 61 (on the bike path)
top the car. That was a beautiful trip but at around 160 miles not for the faint of heart or the soft
of bottom.
The slower pace of biking up here allows you to feel connected to the area in a deeper way.
You start to notice the small things that make the trip north special. Your eyes, and mind, are free
to wander. Not only are your legs and lungs are getting a good workout, so is your mind. If
you’re coming up for a few days consider bring along a bike (or motorcycle!) It’s a great way to
see parts of the wilderness that most folks pass by with their windows up.
Happy Trails!
D-Dawg.
Last week I made my way from Chicago to northern Minnesota for my fall work season at Sawbill. Instead of busting out the drive in one long day I added a few days to see the Iron Range region of the state.
My intent was to hammock camp somewhere between Duluth and Hibbing but with storms coming in I holed up in a hotel outside Duluth. Next morning I had some mediocre hotel coffee and made the trip up 53 towards Hibbing. Minutes after rolling into town I found myself parked in front of Bob Dylan’s home from 1948-1959. In 1958, in the midst of a particularly brutal winter, Bob and a friend travelled from Hibbing to Duluth to see the Winter Dance Party tour at the Armory. Dylan famously talks about the impact of seeing Buddy Holly and making direct eye contact with him while Holly was on stage. Three days later Holly, along with Richie Valens and the Big Bopper would die in a plane crash outside of Clear Lake Iowa. (A few years winters ago I made a trip to the crash site. It was a bitter February day, just like the day of the crash, and when I visited it felt like the loneliest place on earth)
As I stood in front of Dylan’s former home I was struck by the idea that someone who had such an impact on music and culture could come from such an out of the way place. I also wondered what that drive home from Duluth was like that night after seeing Buddy Holly. It’s a lonely stretch of road now, one can only imagine what it was like in the dead of winter in 1958. Two dazed small town kids trying to stay warm and keep from sliding into the ditch while they tried to process what they’d just seen.
I left the car, took my my bike of its rack and peddled around town for an hour or so. Hibbing has some amazing old housing stock, some beautiful buildings and a least one good coffee shop.
On my way out of town I stopped at the Hull Rust Mine overlook and information center. I’d never seen a real open mine before and was amazed at the size of the operation. That mine alone, one of many, sends 400 railroad cars a day of raw materials down the line for processing.
Next up on the driving tour was the town of Chisholm. I stopped by a sadly outdated mining museum there, slow rolled through town and headed to Eveleth.
I’m a hockey fan so I made a quick trip to the American Hockey Hall of Fame, (also a bit outdated) then did a pass through town where I stopped to take some pics of downtown’s many neon bar signs.
Next up was Virginia, slightly bigger than Eveleth and Chisholm, but a bit rougher around the edges than Hibbing. There are some amazing downtown building facades and another fantastic display of neon tavern signs.
I’m guessing most folks that make their way north to paddle don’t make a side trip to the Iron Range. This region has as rich history and played a crucial role in helping to build a nation. Mining is certainly a hot button issue in this state, and I think my brief tour of these towns made me appreciate the area and understand the issues a bit more.
D-Dawg
08-21-26
8/20/26 – If you happened to be near the Boundary Waters Wednesday night of last week, then you might have seen more shooting stars streak across the sky than usual. The annual meteor shower named the Perseids occurs in mid-August where 50 to 100 meteors can be seen per hour, so, naturally, the Sawbill Crew had to do some stargazing.
The night of August 12th was perfect. The Perseids were at the peak of visibility and it also happened to be the night of a new moon, making room for the stars to shine even brighter. The weather was ideal too. The crew walked down to the landing in shorts and sweatshirts and joined a group of customers who had already set up their seats for viewing.
As the crew laid on the ground keeping steady eyes on the sky, some people got luckier than others to catch more glimpses of meteors at first. It could’ve been the timing or maybe better eyesight. Either way, when you heard the “ahh” or “wow” of those who have spotted a meteor, it would be followed by an “ugh” or “I missed it again!” There was one shooting star that was especially noticeable. It streaked across the sky leaving an electric tail that lingered for what felt like 10 seconds then popped a flash of light before disappearing. Once it faded, one of the customers asked their friend, “Did you see that one?!”. Their friend responded with a heavy, “No”. We all laughed.
Here’s a reminder that if you see a shooting star, make a wish!
-Kay
8/12– A couple weeks ago, Hammer stumbled across a unique species of flower right along the campground trails. While on my evening stroll last night, I decided to see if it was still growing in the same spot. Low and behold, I discovered a cluster of “ghost flowers” hidden in the shadows.
Monotropa uniflora, also known as the “Indian pipe flower” or “ghost flower”, is an uncommon, yet exciting find in the woods. If you aren’t looking closely, you might miss the flower tucked within the damp, shaded undergrowth. However, their distinct, translucent white color makes the flower easy to identify.
What makes the “ghost flower” so special? The plant’s color comes from the lack of chlorophyll in its cells, which is used in photosynthesis and gives plants their green color. The ghost flower is a parasitic plant, meaning it has no need for photosynthesis. Instead, it feeds solely off the nutrients from mycorrhizal fungi within the forest soil. Mycorrhizal fungi and trees have a symbiotic relationship in the forest—the trees send nutrients to the fungi while the fungi pulls up hard-to-reach water and nutrients for the trees to absorb. The fungi forms a complex network, acting as a “highway” for trees to send needed nutrients to one another. The “ghost flower” disrupts that relationship, intercepting the nutrients from the fungi and stealing it for itself (https://www.fs.usda.gov/wildflowers/beauty/mycotrophic/monotropa_uniflora.shtml).
The ”ghost flower” is part of a group of plants called mycoheterotrophs, which steal nutrients from mycorrhizal fungi. Some species of plants are only parasitic at certain stages of their life cycle; many species of orchid, for example, steal nutrients as seedlings before shifting to photosynthesis as they grow. Other species within this group include certain types of ferns and clubmosses.
The ”ghost flower” was also one of Emily Dickinson’s favorite plants, and a picture of the flower decorates the cover of her first published book. She famously referred to it as the “preferred flower of life”(https://www.emilydickinsonmuseum.org/roomitem/preferred-flower-of-life/).
I hope you enjoyed this brief lesson on the ecology of the beautiful North Woods!
-Olivia
