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New Crew

It’s mid-July and the whole Sawbill crew is officially here! This year the crew is split pretty evenly between returners and newcomers. Keep an eye out on our webpage this week as we update our “Meet the Crew” segment to learn about all of the crew members both old and new. For now, I’ll introduce the first-year Sawbill crew. We’re the rookies, the newbies, the ones who are still learning how to tie a good bear rope and wrangle three canoes to the top of a half-cab. We might be a little green yet, but we’re quickly learning the Sawbill ways and are so excited to be spending the summer in such a beautiful place!

Without further adieu, here is the new crew!

Ben

From: Minneapolis, Minnesota

Favorite lake in the BWCA: Saganaga

Favorite Sawbill memory so far: Trying to sail across Saganaga with Diana

Favorite pastimes: Lifting weights in the dome, watching skate videos, biking on forest roads, and talking to customers

Diana

From: Sartell, MN

Favorite lake in the BWCA: Saganaga

Favorite Sawbill memory so far: Looking at the stars at night

Favorite pastimes: Reading, playing with Huckleberry, and of course, paddling

Favorite and least favorite job at Sawbill: Washing the leeches

Emily

From: Duluth, Minnesota

Favorite lake in the BWCA: Knife Lake

Favorite Sawbill memory so far: Sunset swims with the crew

Favorite pastimes: Hiking, biking, reading

Favorite job at Sawbill: Working dome (outfitting) and meeting all of the different customers

Gabe

From: Cedar Falls, Iowa

Favorite lake in the BWCA: Little Saganaga

Favorite Sawbill memory so far: Paddles with friends

Favorite pastimes: Climbing and napping at Beach Club

Least favorite lake in the BWCA: Beth, she stole my glasses

Robin

From: Grand Marais, Minnesota

Favorite lake in the BWCA: Cherry

Favorite Sawbill memory so far: Sunset swims and rainy paddles

Favorite pastimes: Knitting, climbing, cross country skiing, canoeing, baking

Siri

From: Mount Horeb, Wisconsin

Favorite Lake in the BWCA: South Temperance

Favorite Sawbill memory so far: Paddling on Lake Superior for Ladies Night

Favorite pastimes: Reading, biking, skiing, hiking, and paddling

Favorite part about working store: Petting all of the dogs

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Fire FAQ

7/18/21 – We’re getting some phone calls about the current fire situation in the BWCA so I thought a wildfire FAQ was in order. Of course, the situation is changing from day to day, and we will continue to post updates here and on social media as the summer progresses.

Where are the fires? Currently, there are a number of wildfires burning in the Superior National Forest, as well as the Quetico Provincial Park across the border in Ontario. Below is a map that shows the location of the current fires, with the town of Ely marked for reference.

The red fire icons show active fires. Sawbill is off this map to the east.

Are any of these fires threatening the Sawbill area? The short answer is no. At the moment, these fires are all quite a ways from us, and there is no imminent threat to us from active fires.

Is there a fire ban? Yes. You cannot have campfires in the BWCA or Superior National Forest. Right now, you can still have a campfire in the designated fire ring at the Sawbill Lake, Crescent Lake, and Temperance River campgrounds. Looking into my crystal ball, I expect that the fire ban will extend to these campgrounds very soon. The fire ban means no campfires, no twig stoves, and no charcoal grills.

How will I know if a fire starts in the area while I’m out on a trip? If the area you are tripping in comes under threat of a wildfire while you are out there, the Forest Service Wilderness Rangers will enter the at-risk area and notify campers. You will be instructed to leave the area and shown the best route to do so.

Is the BWCA closed? There are two specific areas of the BWCA Wilderness that the Forest Service has closed, in an abundance of caution. These areas are at particular risk from current wildfires. Below is a map showing the closed areas.

This most recent closure extends from entry point 12 on the West to 71 on the East and borders Canada and Quetico Provincial Park.
This closure is due to the Delta Lake Fire, the town of Ely is marked on the West for reference.

Which entry points are closed? The following is a list of currently closed entry points:

  • Little Indian Sioux River North #14
  • Moose / Portage River #16
  • Stuart River #19
  • Angleworm Lake #20
  • South Hegman Lake #77
  • Little Vermilion Lake #12
  • Lac La Croix Only #12A
  • Blandin Trail #11
  • Herriman Lake Trail #13
  • Sioux-Hustler Trail #15
  • Angleworm Trail #21

If you have a permit for a closed entry point, you will get a refund for your permit. You are welcome to book a different permit for another entry point, although availability is quite limited. You can check for open permits on recreation.gov. We service the entry points in the Tofte District, primarily.

The Forest Service does not open up more permits for other entry points, the quota system remains the same as a regular year and once they are booked, that’s it. That said, there are opportunities for canoe camping within the Superior National Forest that are outside the BWCA and therefore do not require a permit. One option is the Timber Frear Loop, which is nearby Sawbill.

How smoky is it at Sawbill? There’s a significant haze in the air, that is persistent throughout the day and night. The smell of wildfire smoke is like no other, and is ever present these days.

Haze over the Temperance River valley at midday on July 16th.

What are water levels like? In a word, low. Routes in our area are still navigable, but the portage landings look at little different than usual. After speaking with groups who returned from Cherokee this morning, the word is that Cherokee Creek is low but navigable, with a few short areas that may require walking while floating the canoe.

Are the bears becoming a problem due to the drought and fires? We have had no reports of problem bears in the Sawbill area. No doubt, it is a rough year for bears and other wild life. Keep a clean camp, hang your food, and ask an outfitter in your area for updates on persistent problem bears.

If you have any other questions or concerns, please don’t hesitate to give us a call. We are answering the phones 7am – 9pm, seven days a week. We’re working hard to help folks have successful trips! Thank you for your continued support and conscientious efforts to protect and enjoy our favorite Wilderness area.

-Clare

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Have you ever seen the rain?

7/16/21- There has been quite a lack of rain this summer, and as such, it comes as no surprise that there has also been a high fire danger in the last month. These dry conditions are directly responsible for the fire restrictions in northern Minnesota that started on July 9th, 2021.

Follow this link to the Minnesota DNR’s website which shows fire risk and gives more information about fire restrictions. https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/forestry/fire/firerating_restrictions.html

You can also see what your drought level in your area looks like on this website https://www.drought.gov/states/minnesota

The drought has directly impacted our water levels, leaving certain rivers too low to pass in boats and left some of our plants small and crunchy. One of the plants we have seen affected is the blueberry! Our blueberry experts Clare and Lida have informed us that their private patches have been looking quite thirsty this year. We are hoping we will get more rain in the future so that we can all enjoy a sweet taste of summer in the Northwoods. In the meantime please remember to keep fires out of the BWCA and ensure your grated fires are small and use lots of water when putting them out.

Some frost and drought survivors! Grow berries, grow!
Hanging out with some of our bait!

Leeches are cool. In fact, I think most people let their appearance make a scary first impression but, as our resident Leech lover Kit Shirley says “Leeches deserve love too.” I too have fallen victim to running away from their shiny bodies but I have been working on understanding and appreciating these creatures. Leeches or Hirudirea are considered worms and they live on every continent on the planet except Antarctica, this includes giant amazon leeches that can be up to 18 inches long and live up to 20 years! Our BWCA wilderness has leeches living in the waters! They can be big or small and can be seen swimming in the water or attached to rocks and logs. If you are trying to avoid them hitching a ride we suggest tennis shoes or boots while portaging! (Facts from Mark E Siddall, a Parasite expert)

– Diana

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Oh Snap!

7/13/2021- One of the most exciting visitors of the season has been appearing on our shores. We are not sure what her name is but her presence is definitely noticed! She is a snapping turtle who is deciding if Sawbill is a safe enough place to lay her eggs! We understand how cool it can be to see these creatures on our shores but we ask you to take into consideration their feelings and personal space. We love our snapping turtles and encourage you to tell them a story, take pictures with them, and say hi but refrain from picking them up or touching their body. This helps keep the turtles safe and healthy and also ensures that everyone keeps all of their fingers!

Crew members Ben and Sawyer saying hello!

Snapping turtles are incredible creatures that can live more than 40 years! Their distinctive features include their large heads and necks which have blunt wart-like tubercles on them. Snappers typically build their nests in the summer and springtime. They choose dry, sandy areas and can lay between 20 and 40 eggs! These eggs take 60 to 65 days to incubate which means they generally hatch in mid-August.

More turtle facts pulled from https://www.cookmuseum.org:

  • Common Snapping Turtle’s scientific name is Chelydra serpentina. Chelydra is a Greek word that means “tortoise” and serpentina is derived from the Latin word serpentis, which means “snake”.  This word refers to its long tail.
  • They have powerful jaws and have an average bite force of 209 N. They may not have the same force that you do when you bite with your molars (1300 N) but they have enough force to do some real damage.
  • The Common Snapping turtle is an aquatic turtle that prefers slow-moving, shallow bodies of water with muddy bottoms, which give them places to hide.
  • They are omnivores, meaning they eat plants and animals.  Their diet consists of plants, insects, worms, snakes, fish and other small animals.
  • You can find the Common Snapping Turtle all the way from southeastern Canada to the southern tip of the Florida panhandle.

– Diana

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Living with bears!

7/11/21- Since the beginning of summer, we have seen the reappearance of many warm-weather creatures. We have seen hummingbird moths, giant snappers, and many singing birds. That being said we have also begun to see and hear sights of a local legend- Chester the bear. Since we are blessed to be living in the woods, that means we must take precautions to share our space with the locals- these include chipmunks, red squirrels, and our friends the black bears.

Crew member Sawyer found this gift left by Chester!

We wanted to give our past, present, and future visitors some reminders that can help us all be bear aware and prepared!

Food Storage: It is recommended that all visitors assist in preventing wildlife from becoming habituated to human food in order for both the safety of humans and wildlife. Storing food properly will help keep it away from creatures big and small. We advise enclosing food in a hard-sided vehicle or a bear-resistant container. Once you are finished preparing or eating your meal clean up after yourself to prevent accidents- chipmunks can be silent and sneaky!

Other reminders:

– Keeping a clean camp, makes it harder for small animals to get into things.

-We advise you not to sleep in clothes that you wore while cooking or handling fish to avoid attracting wildlife near your tent

-Cleaning grills and storing them in a container so they are unavailable to wildlife

-Clean up garbage regularly and using bear-resistant trash receptacles

Thank you for keeping our campgrounds safe and smart!

-Diana

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Fire Ban

7/10/21 – Yesterday the Forest Service announced a fire ban on the Superior National Forest, including the BWCAW. Here is the official notification:

So what does that mean for anyone headed our way? Well, if you are planning a trip into the BWCA Wilderness, you will not be able to have a campfire while out on your trip. You’ll need to bring a liquid fuel burning stove, with enough fuel to get you by. If you are staying here at the Sawbill Campground (or Crescent or Temperance campgrounds), you are allowed to have a campfire in the firegrate. Please exercise extreme caution when doing so! We check all the firegrates everyday, but we need your help to keep us safe during these dry conditions. If you are planning to camp on the Superior National Forest in one of the unmanaged sites (think Baker or Kawishiwi) you will not be allowed to have a campfire or use a charcoal grill.

There are currently four active wildfires in the BWCA. All of them have been started by lightening, and are being actively managed by the Forest Service and their partners. While none of the fires are very close to Sawbill, the Delta fire has grown to an estimated 65 acres and prompted a closure of some areas within the BWCA. Below is a map of the closed area.

This is the closure area, not the boundaries of the fire.

We aren’t anticipating any impact of these fires on the Sawbill area at this time, but that doesn’t mean that we aren’t preparing. We have a robust sprinkler system that has been recently tested and is ready to go at a moment’s notice. We (Dan and Clare) stayed up late last night brushing up on our evacuation plans so that we can be quick and efficient if the need arises. We live with the philosophy that it’s not if, but when, a wildfire will come through our area.

We’ll post updates on any fire ban information or fire activity in our area here as well as on Facebook and Instagram. Another good resource for fire information is Inciweb.

As always, if you have any questions don’t hesitate to give us a call.

-Clare

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12th Annual Sawbill Dragon Boat Race


7/5/21 – Each year the Sawbill crew marks the passing of another 4th of July by cramming Minnesota 2’s with four paddlers each and racing each other from the Guard Station dock to the Sawbill canoe landing.

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The teams load up and discuss last minute strategies.

Fireworks are prohibited in the Superior National Forest, including the BWCA Wilderness. Lucky for us, nature seems to provide a natural show every year.

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The teams paddle off into the 9pm sunset to line up.

After a rousing finish and traditional dunk in the lake, we noticed another spectator that had snuck in unnoticed during the race hubub.

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Mama snapping turtle chose a busy night to lay her eggs at the canoe landing.

-Clare

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Floatplane Excitement

6/30/21 – On Friday the 25th there was quite the excitement when a Forest Service Beaver floatplane touched down on Sawbill. Dating back to the 1930s, Beaver planes were initially used for fire detection and response. Now, they’re used for wildlife surveys, search and rescue, aerial seeding, and more, in addition to fire management and response. This particular flight was part of training for a new Forest Service pilot. Sawbill is a popular place for these kinds of trainings because of the tricky landing it requires. Although they’re allowed to fly under the designated flight allowance for the area, Forest Service Pilots try to avoid flying low over the wilderness if they can. Seeing as most of Sawbill Lake and the surrounding area lies within the wilderness boundary, landing on the lake can prove to be tricky. However, this landing proved to be no problem for the pilot as all went smoothly. When they pulled up to the dock, the pilot and her co-pilot were greeted by curious paddlers and some of the Sawbill crew. The crew got to check out the plane and Kit and Sig even had the special honor of sitting in the back seat. When it came time to take off, crew members Sawyer and Ben helped hold onto the plane while the pilots untied the ropes, and then they were off and on to the next!

-Siri

The Beaver coming in to the Sawbill Dock
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Ladies Night

6/27/21 – Every year, once the crew has arrived, it is Sawbill tradition to celebrate the season with a Guys and Ladies Night. It’s one of the many highlights of the summer. Friday night marked the 2021 Ladies night and Guys night is still on the way. The gals celebrated with dinner and a paddle on a picture-perfect evening in Grand Marais.

The Sawbill ladies after dinner and paddling

The day started like any other. In the morning and most of the afternoon, we worked our normal jobs, but when 4 o’clock rolled around, the ladies signed off and left the boys to hold down the fort. We put on our best, loaded up some gear and canoes, and piled into the transportation van. We drove to the Grand Marais Harbor, where we put in our canoes, and marveled at the deep blue waters of Lake Superior. The conditions could not have been more perfect. The water was still as glass, the sun was shining, and the sound of live music traveled across the harbor. We Stopped for dinner at The Angry Trout Cafe before paddling back across the harbor. We ended the evening on the beach skipping rocks and taking in the cotton candy sky. Needless to say, the ladies had a blast and the boys were a little bit jealous. 

-Siri

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Dan and Kit do the Cherokee Loop

6/22/21 – This year for my annual father/daughter canoe trip with Kit (5), we decided to do the Cherokee Loop, beginning and ending at the landing on Sawbill Lake. Kit has been eyeing up the Cherokee Loop since our return from 2 nights on Wine Lake last summer. Clare and the Sawbill crew graciously gave us a few days off, so we went for it.

We launched at about 8am on Thursday June 17th. We loaded our moderately packed Granite Gear Superior 1 pack along with Kit’s small backpack and another day pack into a Northstar B16. The B16 is a great option for paddling with kids because it has symmetrical rocker so it can be paddled “backwards”, turning  the bow seat into a stern seat that is closer to the center of the canoe. Without a thwart behind the front seat (as is usually in place with larger canoes), this is an easy adaptation. Kit is a good paddler for a 5 year old, but only takes strokes occasionally, so I effectively solo paddle us around. 

Our plan was to do the loop backwards (counter clockwise), so we headed for the portage to Smoke Lake and made it there in good time with a light tail wind and warm sun. We met a group coming off the portage who had just left camp on Burnt that morning. We proceeded across the 100 rod portage and talked to two more groups on the Smoke side who were also exiting from a stay on Burnt. With this intel, we felt good about our prospects for finding a campsite.

We decided to do the loop backwards for this exact reason – give ourselves the best chance at a campsite on Burnt by arriving early in the day. You see, there has been a trend toward folks base camping on Sawbill, Alton, Smoke and Burnt, causing some congestion on those lakes and more campsite pressure. (Folks traveling a bit farther rarely ever have issues with campsite availability). 

The paddle across Smoke was pretty quick, aided by a stiffer west northwest wind. We gathered our gear for the 90 rods to Burnt. We checked out a few sites and ultimately decided to stay on the site on the north side of the narrows as you enter the lake. 

With plenty of daylight left, we ate lunch, set up camp and spent the rest of the day swimming and fishing from shore. We didn’t catch any fish, but maybe the bald eagle soaring above our swimming hole did. We had a nice campfire with roasted hot dogs and smores for dinner. It was a fun quintessential camp experience. Despite a relatively easy travel day, we were in bed by 6:30pm for some book reading. 

Kit (5) enjoys hot dogs roasted over the campfire on Burnt Lake.
Kit fishing on Burnt Lake. No luck on this day.

Up at 5am the next day, we packed up camp as we had a breakfast of ramen noodles and coffee (for me). The day started calm and beautiful, with long morning shadows cast across the lake and vibrant green canopy blanketing the far shore.

Burnt Lake breakfast in the early morning light.

On the water by 6:30am, our day was off to a good start. The short paddle across the middle of Burnt brought us to the first portage of the day, 230 rods into Kelly. 

I hoisted the Superior 1 to my back and caribinered the day pack to my front, paddles and life jackets strapped inside the canoe that came up onto my shoulders. Kit shouldered her pack and off we went with all our gear. We have a pretty good system down allowing us to single portage every time. Our not yet acclimated muscles had us take a quick break midway across the portage. 

As we shoved off onto Kelly Lake, the breeze had started to pick up, coming out of the south. It aided us along as we made our way up the lake. We stopped and drifted toward the north while I treated (steripen) a couple of bottles of water. The stiff tail wind was welcome during the remainder of our paddle through the narrow meandering section of Kelly. A couple of groups passed by heading south, offering perspective to our good fortune of the wind direction. 

A quick 65 rods and we were on Jack. Much to our surprise our nice tail wind was now blowing into our faces, swirling on Jack, as we readied to launch. A short ways up the lake a beaver dam formed a barrier that needed negotiating. Wind gusts beared down hard as I paddled toward the dam. A gust shoved us off kilter and spun the bow of the canoe to the side. I couldn’t back paddle quickly enough to get us turned before the bow slammed sideways into a rock, rattling my partner. Spinning around for a second attempt, I was able to nose up to the dam. I climbed out onto the dam and pulled the canoe up and over, avoiding the need to unload anything or anyone else. Now on the other side, a strong kick and we were navigating into the swirling and gusting wind, thankful that the lake was too small and narrow to produce any significant waves from the stiff wind. 

Paddling through marsh grass!

The campsite on the north side of Jack is slightly mis-placed on the Makenzie map. It appears right next to the narrows that lead you out of the north side of the lake. In reality the campsite is farther to the east. As a result, we were lured over to the site, creating a minor detor and backtrack into the wind. Once we were on track exiting through the narrows to the north, we decided to land on a rock outcropping for lunch. We dined on peanut butter tortillas, string cheese and cookies.

Lunch rock just north of Jack Lake. Heavy wind gusts blowing as we ate.

Making our way up through this boggy section toward the portage into Weird Lake, a cow moose appeared around the bend. We slowed and watched as she ate and marfed around. When she sensed our presence she gently walked back up onto shore, delicately lifting and placing her long gangly legs,back into the woods. Continuing on, we looked toward the west as we went by the spot she was in and sure enough she was standing in the woods with a calf at her side. The calf saw us and skittered under her mom. Kit and I exchanged smiles and thumbs up – and plodded on toward the portage, gusts bearing down on us. 

A short portage into Weird and another beaver dam to scale up and over welcoming us to this next body of water. This time we were able to approach without issue, making the transition quickly. The single campsite on the lake appeared on our right as we passed by. It was available and looked kind of like a nice one on the small lake. Turning toward the northeast, the wind was now at our backs carrying us to our next portage. Nearing the portage, a strong gust blew Kit’s paddle from her hands as she switched sides. Quick reflexes from Dad and the paddle was rescued without detour or incident. Another quick 80 rod portage and we were on a small unnamed zig zag. 

Despite its small size, this was the biggest paddling challenge so far of the day. As we proceeded out of the northeast pointing section, turning back to the west, the wind was hammering us. I made three attempts, each time getting blown back requiring me to back paddle and spin around in order to try again. With some help from my bow paddler, we were finally able to get across the east/west section and turn back toward the south before swinging around to the north and into the landing at the portage. 

Coming down the 240 rod portage from South Temperance was a group of Sawbill customers with three canoes – two tandems and a solo. The solo paddler was soaking wet having just capsized on South Temperance. We compared notes for a few minutes about open campsites to the south and conditions on South Temperance. The group was a little rattled from the conditions they had just navigated. Because they were double portaging and now had empty hands, they graciously offered to carry a couple of our things as we all headed north across the portage. Kit got to saunter across unencumbered and I only had to carry the canoe along with the Superior 1 pack on my back.

Arriving at the landing on South Temperance, the wind was gusting hard out of the northwest, pummeling the portage. Large white caps covered the lake while waves crashed on the portage. Kit and I decided to sit tight and wait for things to improve while the other folks headed toward the south. We sat windbound for a couple of hours, watching the choppy lake, planning how to proceed. If I wasn’t effectively solo paddling and had an adult in the bow, we would have launched right away and I feel confident we could have navigated the conditions without issue. When traveling the Wilderness, making safe decisions is a priority in any case. Traveling with your small children really brings that priority into focus. 

While we waited we watched another group come down the lake and then helped them land at the portage. I held their canoe so they could unload and clamber to shore. They were completely soaked and there were a few inches of water in the canoe from a recent capsizing.

Once safely on shore, we quizzed them about open campsites, in particular the site just across the southeast bay from the portage. They mentioned that it appeared to be open, although it is high up on a cliff so they couldn’t be sure. 

We continued to wait and watch the lake while they completed a double portage toward the south. 

The lake seemed like it was calming a bit and we were both getting anxious to get off that portage and across to that campsite. We decided to gear up and get ready for a window without big gusts. 

I’m not sure that window ever came, but we felt ready. Launching the canoe faced straight into the wind and waves, my resolute 5 year old paddling partner and I shoved off. We both dug in and made good progress out into the lake. I plopped down on my knees in the middle of the canoe to give me a bit of leverage for turning as we strained forward. Our progress across the bay was good, but we were losing ground on making the point where the campsite was. I set my sights on a large exposed rock along the shore, but we came up a little short. Instead we came into a thicket of sweetgale lining the shore. I was able to grab onto this woody shoreline shrub and hold the canoe facing directly into the wind and waves, waiting for the heavy gust to abate. After several minutes of white knuckled grip while the canoe bucked and bounced, we decided to paddle forward again and try to make the rock just up ahead. However, once I let my grip of the sweetgale go, we were immediately blown backwards and sideways. I was able to quickly back paddle to turn a 180 with the stern now facing into the wind and draw us toward a different big rock and break in the sweetgale thicket. As we neared the shore, I jumped out of the canoe to land us and to avoid smashing in. The water was about chest deep due to the steep shore line. Immediately after I was in the water, I noticed the gunwale going under and Kit heading over the side, following me. I steadied the canoe and hollered for her to climb back in. I then clambered up the rock and hauled the partially submerged canoe, gear and Kit up onto shore. Quickly securing things and dumping out the water from the canoe, we were safe and sound. Kit was a little freaked out – and wet – from the ordeal, but otherwise fine. Once we gathered our composure, we bushwacked into the woods to seek out the campsite, quickly picking up a small trail that brought us right to it. Thankfully it was not occupied so we decided to end our day there at about 4pm. 

The view from the campsite on South Temperance, the lake swirling below.
Kit happy to be dry and cozy on our picturesque campsite on South Temperance.

That evening we dried out the gear and clothes that got wet and enjoyed the views from the cliftop site. We decided against a campfire due to the wind, opting for hanging out on the rocks and reflecting on the long day. Oftentimes a hallmark of popular campsites are the habituated critters that hang out on the periphery and dip and dive into the action whenever possible. In addition to the standard squirrel and chipmunk duo, we happened across a large painted turtle pawing at our tent door. When I noticed the rustling and headed over to check it out, the big lumbering animal sauntered off into the woods leaving a startled trail of water (pee?) in its path. I’m glad we didn’t leave the door open or we might have been crawling into an incubation chamber that night!

Turtle fleeing from our tent.
Trace left by retreating turtle.

The wind did ultimately die down that evening, and by 6 pm things were pretty calm. We headed to bed by 8pm knowing that the following day – our third and final day – was going to be a long one to complete the loop up north to Cherokee and then back down to Sawbill.

Amidst an overcast sky, with a threat of rain that never materialized, we set off from our beautiful respite site after another breakfast of ramen and coffee. On the water by 7:30, conditions were quite different than the last time we were paddling. We headed northeast to the 55 rod portage into North Temperance, our first of 7 of the day (8 if you count the walk back home from the landing on Sawbill). The quick jaunt put us onto the scenic waterway with a long arm leading us to its western edge. A patch of sun filtered through as we paddled close to shore, our eyes peeled for turtles.

Paddling along North Temperance Lake toward the west and Cherokee Lake.

Another 105 rods of portaging and we were on the small Sitka Lake which we traversed in calm winds and grey skies. The following portage is tucked in a small bay that I wasn’t sure was the right spot, but Kit insisted we check it out. She was right. The 140 rod portage between Sitka and Cherokee is reminiscent of a mountain trail out west. Lots of elevation gain and loss in a somewhat rollercoaster fashion. Our leg muscles straining a bit more than normal, we cruised across without any breaks, taking the stone staircase down to a calm and grey Cherokee Lake. 

Kit gazing out over Cherokee Lake.

Open campsites abounded, and we ached a bit knowing that the two hours of travel we just completed had been planned to take place the day before. Conditions are always changing in the Wilderness, so a degree of flexibility is prudent to ensure a safe and enjoyable experience. 

We skirted the south east shoreline with a light head wind that was swirling around the islands. Knowing the wind was coming from the north, we anxiously paddled on looking forward to our turn to the south. We stopped to drift and refill water one last time. Pulling into Cherokee Creak, the long east/west finger that usually welcomes people to Cherokee, presented us with a glassy surface and beautiful reflections. My partner in the bow was tickled for a calm opportunity to dunk lilly pads as we glided up the narrow passage. The water levels are a little low, so we were unable to make it all the way to the portage, a short mud slog and we were at the landing. 

Readying ourselves for the longest portage of the day, and what really feels like the transition point from the interior of the Wilderness back to the fringe, we strapped on our gear and started walking straight south on the 180 rod portage. Arriving at the Skoop, Ada, Ada Creek complex, the map becomes a little less reliable regarding exact portage location and length. This section is pretty dynamic, constantly changing from the beaver activity and water levels. It’s prudent to take the portages where you can, and the places where you are able to paddle seem to be clear. A final 80 rod portage from Ada Creek and we were back on Sawbill Lake. 

We took the opportunity to finally break for lunch before settling in for our long paddle down the entire length of Sawbill. We had our final lunch of peanut butter tortillas, string cheese, cookies and a few bonus pieces of Lindt chocolate. 

We had only seen two groups since our time windbound on the South Temperance portage, but now that we were back on Sawbill, groups started appearing here and there as we wound through the islands on the north end, making our way through the narrows, and down the 4 mile corridor. 

With a full stomach and cozied into her one-piece rain suit, Kit began to nod off as I paddled us south toward home. I suggested that she slink down to the floor of the canoe in front of her seat so she would have a backrest (and also not tumble out of the canoe). As she slept with her head on the gunwale, I enjoyed the mild tail wind below dark and dramatic cloud formations. 

Kit taking a break while we paddled south down Sawbill Lake.

We made the landing about 9 hours after we began early that morning on South Temperance. Mom (Clare) and little brother (Sig) were just coming down to check our progress. Everyone was happy to reunite after our fun Wilderness adventure. 

At the landing on Sawbill Lake. Happy to be home to see mom and brother.

-Dan